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→The NMO Mount
**Misc.
***Factory Installed [http://www.nissanusa.com/innovations/utili-track.article.html Utili-Track™] or a [[2012_Nissan_Frontier:_Strut_Channel_Install|DIY Utili-Track]] solution.
***<s>[http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape Liquid Electrical Tape]</s> [https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Flashing-10-Fluid-Cartridge-1618181/dp/B004BPETG6 Black Roofing Sealant]***[https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-253351-32-Ounce-Mineral/dp/B0070S82AU Mineral Spirits]
***[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_tie Zip Ties]
***A piece of scrap metal at least 1.6" x 1.6" inches square (see [[#The NMO Mount|The NMO Mount]])
#Insert the Antenna Cable NMO Connector through the bottom of the NMO mount and screw the top piece on. Make sure the cable is at the angle you want it. I chose to have it stick out toward the side of the truck.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_4.jpg|400px]]
#Once you've got it setup the way you want, it's time to weather proof. Remove the NMO Right Angle Bracket from the Strut Channel (but keep the Antenna Cable attached). Mount the entire thing in the vice setup you used for soldering.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_5.jpg|400px]]
#<span style="color: red>NOTE: After about 5 years the Liquid Electrical Tape used in the next couple steps really started to become brittle and crack. I think it couldn't stand up to the UV exposure. I replaced it with a Polyurethane based roofing sealant. It should work better as it is designed to be under constant exposure to the sun and weather.</span>#Take your <s>Liquid Electrical Tape </s> Roofing Sealant and apply a nice fat blob to the connector and let it dry.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_6.jpg|400px]]#Check the area below the cable for a gap. If there is a gap there, pull the cable back and put some more <s>Liquid Electrical Tape </s> Roofing Sealant there and let it dry.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_7.jpg|400px]]
#Put 1 last coat over the whole thing and work up the cable an inch or so (this is to provide some additional strain relief). Let it dry.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_8.jpg|400px]]
#Now it's time to reattach the bracket to the Strut Channel. I also decided to Zip Tie the cable to the nearest spacer bolt as additional strain relief. If you chose to buy an NMO Weather Cap, install it until you're ready to put your NMO Antenna on. The silver you see on the center pin of my NMO Connector is a bit of solder I used when trying to heat up the center pin. It's flat and shouldn't cause any problems.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_9.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_10.jpg|400px]]
#Congrats! You're done with the NMO Mount!<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_12.jpg]]
===Radio Power & Interface Cable===
#The switches in the Center Stack come out the same way. Remove the Center Stack. Go in from behind and using a small screwdriver, lift the plastic tabs holding the switches in place. Go ahead and remove the blank switch placeholders from both sides as well.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_6.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_7.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_8.jpg|400px]]
#Now comes the scariest thing you've ever done to your vehicle... it's time to cut some wires! First make sure you have all of the necessary equipment. I recommend several different colors of wire, wire strippers, wire crimpers, and flush cutters. I'm going to show the procedure on the Cargo Lamp switch. You'll need to do the same thing with the other switches.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_9.jpg|400px]]
#You don't have a ton of extra cable same so be judicious with yours cuts. Unplug your switches and remove the heatshrink around the cable. The make that oh so scarey cut! Make sure you cut about in the middle of the exposed wires. You'll need to reattach the plug later (unless you opt for an aftermarket switch as I did on the Cargo Lamp switch).<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_10.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_11.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_12.jpg|400px]]
#Now it's time to add some extended length cabling so we can reposition the switch on the other side of the steering wheel. Ideally you'd use the exact same color wire but I didn't have that so I did the best I could. I chose crimp style butt connectors to attach my extensions. It's easier than trying to get a soldering iron in the car. But beware! You must make sure your crimp job is good. Give a tug on every wire you crimp. The 1st time around I had a couple loose connections that cause failures. Once I fixed everything, it worked fine. I've driven about 1000 miles with this new setup (at the time of this writing) with no reliability problems. Once you're confident your crimp job is good, zip tie everything together (1 an inch before, 1 on and 1 an inch after the crimp) to make everything a bit more solid.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_13.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_14.jpg|400px]]
#Leave plenty of extra length on your extension lines and cut them to length later. Run them along the bottom of the dash by the steering wheel and out through the opening in the Center Stack. If you are going to use the same factory switch, then re-attach the plug using the same strip, crimp, & zip-tie procedure you used before. Keep your colors straight. If you're going to use an aftermarket switch, keep reading.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_15.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Switches_16.jpg|400px]]
#It's been a long journey but your Yaesu FT-7900R is finally installed and looking great!<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Mic_7.jpg]]
[[Category:2012 Nissan Frontier]] [[Category:Ham Radio]]