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#*The 3 Lid mount points that aren't shared with the Fuse Block use 8-32x3/4" Flat Head Screws with #8 Lock Washers & 8-32 Nuts.
#*The 1 hole shared by the Lid mount & the Fuse Block uses an 8-32x1.5" Pan Head Screw with a #8 Lock Washer & an 8-32 Nut.
#Below is a cartoon wiring diagram showing how the whole Plate goes together. I connected all black wires (negative side of the Relay Coil) to the Barrier Strip. I connected all white wires (Positive side of the Relay Coil) to my 1st connectors. I connected the 5 red wires from the Relays (the common line) to locations 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 on the Fuse Block. I connected the 5 blue wires from the Relays (the Normally Open line) to the 2nd connector. Additionally a red line in 12AWG was used to provide power to the dash switches which comes off the plate on pin 1 of the Switch Signal Connector.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_32.jpgpng|266px]]
#Now it's time to add the cabling. I'm not going to detail every single wire I ran but I will show you how I did it and give you a basic rundown. The relays I bought come with sockets and pre-built pigtails. It was necessary that I add length to each wire to accommodate my installation. I added about 2 feet to each wire, knowing i would trim them to length later. Note that I only used 4 wires per Relay because I didn't need anything connected when the Relay was in the "Normally Open" position.
##First strip the ends of the wires you are going to join. Then tin each exposed end. This is done by heating up the wire and applying solder to it. I recommend globing on as much solder as will comfortably go. This will make it easier to join the 2 wires in the next step.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_12.jpg|266px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_13.jpg|400px]]