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2012 Nissan Frontier: Yaesu FT-7900R Install

810 bytes added, 22:18, 10 February 2013
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Here is where the paths diverge.
 
 
====Radio Interface Cable====
 
#Threaded the Interface Cable into the back of the Center Stack and pull out about 3 to 4 feet of spare cable (this is so that it will be simple to take the Center Stack apart once everything is done).<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_19.jpg|400px]]
#Gather up & zip-tie the excess into a nice bundle and then zip-tie it out of the way behind the glove box area.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_20.jpg|400px]]
 
====Radio Power Cable====
#Now, cut the fuse holder ends off the Power Cable that came with the Radio, strip everything down and, using Crimp Butt Splices, attach Red to Red & Black to Black.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Cabling_19.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Cabling_20.jpg|400px]]
#Starting from the Passenger side, start working the cable back toward (and out) the Engine Compartment until everything is more less taut. Then zip tie everything in place. My motto is, you can never have too many zip ties!<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Cabling_21.jpg|400px]]
#You now basically done with the Power Cabling inside the Cab. Head out to the Engine compartment, approximate how much cable you need to get over to the Fuse Box area and leave yourself some slack. Zip tie everything in place. I followed the same track as the factory cabling for all my cables. If you plan to go right on into the Switch Cabling you can skip the zip ties for now.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Cabling_22.jpg|400px]]
====Radio Interface Cable=Switch Installation & Cabling=== #Threaded the Interface Cable into the back of the Center Stack and pull out about 3 to 4 feet of spare cable (this is so that it will be simple to take the Center Stack apart once everything is done).<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_19.jpg|400px]]#Gather up & zip-tie the excess into a nice bundle and then zip-tie it out of the way behind the glove box area.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_20.jpg|400px]]
===Switch Installation In this section we're going to move the factory Hill Assist & Cabling===ATC Off switches from the Center Stack to left of the Steering Wheel, move the Cargo Lamp switch from left of the Steering Wheel to the Center Stack, replace the factory Cargo Lamp switch with an aftermarket switch, install 2 more aftermarket switches, and run cabling to make said switches do something!
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#Once the wires have been cut to length, pins put on and installed into the connector, and spade lugs put on it is time to start zip tying everything into place. I like the stick on zip-tie anchors to keep everything tidy.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_22.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_23.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_24.jpg|400px]]
#At this point the Power Distribution Plate is basically complete! Time to install it in the vehicle! Now, unfortunately, I spread my Lid mount screws to all 4 corners of the flat part of the Lid. The back 2 (closest to the firewall) interfere with the top of the Nissan Fuse Holder Assembly. I made a couple small cuts and that fixed it right up. You may consider moving the back 2 screws.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_9.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_10.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_11.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_27.jpg|400px]]
#Moving right along we now need to wire the Plate into the rest of the vehicle. This consists of wiring up the other side of the Switch Control & Power Connectors, wiring GND up to the vehicle, & getting 12V Prime Power from the vehicle. Go ahead and wiring up the Switch Control & Power Connectors just like you did on the Plate follow following the same instructions as above.
#Next lets take care of GND. Please remember that as you work on these electrical systems you should always disconnect Power from the vehicle. The simplest way to do this is to disconnect the big Black cable from the Negative terminal on the battery. Recall that GND on the Power Plate is all run to a Barrier Strip in the middle of the plate. Thus, we need to run a line from that Barrier Strip to Vehicle GND. I've read a lot of recommendations that GND be run to the chassis as close to the battery as possible (as opposed to the Chassis close to the Device or directly to the battery). This works for me since it is cleaner than trying to get right on the Negative Lug anyhow. I found a bolt on the Chassis right by the battery which is actually the prime point for the battery to GND the vehicle chassis. The extra blue spade lug in the photo below is return for the FT-7900R. The extra green lug is GND from the Battery.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_28.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_29.jpg|400px]]
#Finally it's time for Prime Power! We basically need to get power from the positive terminal of the Battery to the Common Post on the Fuse Block. While the Fuse Block provides a nice distribution and fusing solution for the electronics in the vehicle, I still didn't want an unfused line running from the battery to the Power Plate. So I built up an inline fuse cable to solve this. It was necessary to trip some of the insulation around the inline fuse cable because the gauge was too thick to fit in my crimp lug & crimp butt connector. I also had to cut a slot out of the factory Terminal Cover to fit my cable in.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_30.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_28.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_31.jpg|400px]]