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==Basic Information==
*If you don't know how to solder or don't have the soldering tools available you can try a cable like this [https://www.hamcity.com/store/pc/CK-3NMO-p714.htm Comet CK-3NMO] which *SHOULD* allows you to complete the install without cutting & resoldering the NMO connector. This might be a good idea anyhow as the solder was a huge pain in the ass. The large chunk of metal that is the NMO connector is a terrific heat sink... Do NOT try to solder the unit together with a wimpy little 25W or 60W Pen Iron from Radio Shack. I recommend you try to get your hands on a 130W + iron.* If you decide to mount the antenna anywhere else but where I've selected you'll need more RG-58 Cable!
*There is a Draft Vent in the back of the cab on the Driver's side that is perfect for running cables to the cab!<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Antenna_Cable_13.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Antenna_Cable_13a.jpg|266px]]
==Lessons Learned==
*I'll mention it again later in the article, but I DON'T recommend you remove and reattach the NMO connector. It's just too hard to solder because it is such a giant heatsink. Instead coil any extra cable you have behind the rear seat. The loss is pretty minor at these frequencies. Alternatively you can remove the connector on the otherside and buy a new crimp style connector to replace it. This is probably the right answer.
*When installing the Relay/Power Distribution Plate you don't want screws at the far back side of the flat area on the Lid for the Nissan Fuse box. They will interfere with stuff inside the box (you'll see later on in the article)
*If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably mount the Radio underneath the Driver's seat instead of underneath the Passenger's seat. This would make the antenna & power cable runs shorter. This would also put the speaker right below me. Currently it is to my right so my right ear picks up the sound more then my left which makes my head feel funny hehe. I'll probably move the radio some time. It won't be too much work.
*When moving the factory switches, located to the right & left of the driver's seat, only the Signal lines need be extended. I extended all 4 lines for each of the 3 switches (a total of 12). In each set of 4, there is 2 GND, 1 Signal, & 1 Dash Light 12V. I could have extended the 3 Signal lines and just reused existing GND, & Dash Light 12V.
*Buy some single side adhesive foam tape at the beginning of your project. Removing and reinstalling the Dash a few times will cause things to loosen up and start vibrating. Install the foam tape in key spots to eliminate the irritating buzz.
#*The 3 Lid mount points that aren't shared with the Fuse Block use 8-32x3/4" Flat Head Screws with #8 Lock Washers & 8-32 Nuts.
#*The 1 hole shared by the Lid mount & the Fuse Block uses an 8-32x1.5" Pan Head Screw with a #8 Lock Washer & an 8-32 Nut.
#Now it's time to add the cabling. I'm not going to detail every single wire I ran but I will show you have I did it and give you a basic rundown. I connected all black wires ( negative side of the Relay Coil) to the Barrier Strip. I connected all white wires (Positive side of the Relay Coil) to my 1st connectors. I connected the 5 red wires from the Relays (the common line) to locations 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 on the Fuse Block. I connected the 5 blue wires from the Relays (the Normally Open line) to the 2nd connector. Additionally a red line in 12AWG was used to provide power to the dash switches which comes off the plate on pin 1 of the Switch Signal Connector.
