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#Check the area below the cable for a gap. If there is a gap there, pull the cable back and put some more Liquid Electrical Tape there and let it dry.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_7.jpg|400px]]
#Put 1 last coat over the whole thing and work up the cable an inch or so (this is to provide some additional strain relief). Let it dry.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_8.jpg|400px]]
#Now it's time to reattach the bracket to the Strut Channel. I also decided to Zip Tie the cable to the nearest spacer bolt as additional strain relief. If you chose to buy an NMO Weather Cap, install it until you're ready to put your NMO Antenna on. The silver you see on the center pin of my NMO Connector is a bit of solder I used when trying to heat up the center pin. It's flat and shouldn't cause any problems. Congrats! You're done with the NMO Mount!<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_9.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_10.jpg|400px]]#Congrats! You're done with the NMO Mount!<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_NMO_Mount_12.jpg|266px]]
#Get a sheet of Lexan (Mine was 8"x12"x1/4") that you can cut to size to fit on top of the lid for the Nissan Fuse/Relay Box. I found that 6.5"x8" was just about perfect. Mark of a 6.5"x8" rectangle and start laying out your components. As shown in the photo, I placed the fuse block in the lower left, put the relays along the right side, put the connectors at the top left and the negative Barrier Strip just above the fuse block. This gave me a vertical and horizontal channel for all my wires to live. I've included a diagram showing how I laid out my components<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_33.png|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_1.jpg|400px]]
#Now trace around all your components and mark off the mounting holes.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_2.jpg|400px]]
#At this point you need to drill out all the holes to the appropriate sizes. If you used the same parts as me the Fuse Block uses #8 screws, the Relays use #10 screws, and the Terminal Block uses #6 screws. I chose to use #8 screws to mount the plate to the lid of the fuse/relay box. In my design, the Fuse Block and the plate mounting to the lid share a hole. A drill press would be best for this, but a hand drill will work. Check out the drill guide for help making sure you do everything right.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_34.jpgpng|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_3.jpg|400px]]
#We now need to countersink all the holes since most of the screws will have components on top of the or need to be flush to not interfere with the top of the Lid. You need to make sure that you countersink the right side of each hole! The Barrier Strip needs to have the bottom of the hole countersunk. The Relays need to have the bottom of the hole countersunk. The Fuse Block needs to have 3 of it's holes (all but the one at the corner) countersunk from the bottom. The 3 mounting holes that mate with the lid that are not shared with the fuse block need to be countersunk from the TOP.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_4.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_5.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_6.jpg|400px]]
#Now bolt the components to the top of the plate. Notice that the corner hole in the fuse block is left empty and that the bottom relay is tightened down, but twisted out of the way. This is too allow us to mount the entire thing to the lid. Now place the entire plate on the lid and put in the rest of the bolts.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_7.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_8.jpg|400px]]
#*The 3 Lid mount points that aren't shared with the Fuse Block use 8-32x3/4" Flat Head Screws with #8 Lock Washers & 8-32 Nuts.
#*The 1 hole shared by the Lid mount & the Fuse Block uses an 8-32x1.5" Pan Head Screw with a #8 Lock Washer & an 8-32 Nut.
#Below is a cartoon wiring diagram showing how the whole Plate goes together. I connected all black wires (negative side of the Relay Coil) to the Barrier Strip. Make sure you install Jumpers so that all post on the barrier strip are connected to each other. I connected all white wires (Positive side of the Relay Coil) to my 1st connectors. I connected the 5 red wires from the Relays (the common line) to locations 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 on the Fuse Block. I connected the 5 blue wires from the Relays (the Normally Open line) to the 2nd connector. Additionally a red line in 12AWG was used to provide power to the dash switches which comes off the plate on pin 1 of the Switch Signal Connector.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_32.png|266px400px]]
#Now it's time to add the cabling. I'm not going to detail every single wire I ran but I will show you how I did it and give you a basic rundown. The relays I bought come with sockets and pre-built pigtails. It was necessary that I add length to each wire to accommodate my installation. I added about 2 feet to each wire, knowing i would trim them to length later. Note that I only used 4 wires per Relay because I didn't need anything connected when the Relay was in the "Normally Open" position.
##First strip the ends of the wires you are going to join. Then tin each exposed end. This is done by heating up the wire and applying solder to it. I recommend globing on as much solder as will comfortably go. This will make it easier to join the 2 wires in the next step.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_12.jpg|266px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_13.jpg|400px]]
#The next step was to, very carefully, position the block of wood exactly where I wanted it to ensure that the Face was at the right depth and was level. Since the block was a tight fit, it basically stayed where it should. So I slid it in so that it was about 1/4" too far out. I then took the Face Plate Assembly and carefully, slowly, inserted it exactly how I wanted it, pushing the block to its correct position. I then carefully removed the Face Plate Assembly, flipped the Pocket over, and screwed a couple Pan Head Wood Screws in to keep the block in place. Next I screwed the Face Mount Bracket into place and, once again, test fit the entire thing.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_14.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_15.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_16.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_17.jpg|400px]]
#Using a Stepped Drill Bit I increased the diameter of one of the holes in the back of the Pocket enough so that I could fit the RJ11 connector, on the Interface Cable, through it.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_18.jpg|400px]]
#After putting the Center Stack back together it was time to put the car back together! Looks good! <br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_22.jpg|266px]]#Now we need find somewhere to hang the mic. I decided the area underneath the right vent was a good spot. I don't really need to see the Passenger Airbag Indicator, it is close to the right side of the radio, it's within reach of the driver and it's got a nice flat space. I found a plastic microphone hanger that attaches with double sided tape. This was ideal since I wasn't excited about drilling holes right in the middle of my console. The back of the hanger wasn't quite flat (it protruded where the plastic was injected) so I cleaned it up with some 220 grit sandpaper. After that it was just a matter of sticking it in place. Notice that I placed the mic in the hanger and temporarily positioned it with my hand to ensure I liked how the mic hung.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Mic_1.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Mic_2.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Face_22Yaesu_Install_Mic_3.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Mic_4.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Mic_5.jpg|266px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Mic_6.jpg|266px]]#It's been a long journey but your Yaesu FT-7900R is finally installed and looking great!<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Mic_7.jpg]]
[[Category:2012 Nissan Frontier]] [[Category:Ham Radio]]
