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Created page with "To go with my [https://steamforge.net/icebear/index.php/Howto_add_a_Fork/Stem_Tube_RAM_Phone_Mount_to_an_Icebear_Champion Fork/Stem Tube RAM Phone Mount] I've added a simple 1..."
To go with my [https://steamforge.net/icebear/index.php/Howto_add_a_Fork/Stem_Tube_RAM_Phone_Mount_to_an_Icebear_Champion Fork/Stem Tube RAM Phone Mount] I've added a simple 12V to 5V DC/DC Converter with an integrated right angle USB-C connector (you can also get them with USB micro-B connectors if you have an older phone). I mounted it to one side of the black bracket that holds the headlight housing. I pulled switched 12V power from the horn and ran a fresh ground line back to the battery. I added a Dust Cap for the USB-C connector to protect it when not inserted into the phone.
It's a bit hard to see the Converter (it tucks in there nicely!) and I took the pictures before ZipTie-ing the cables out of of the way to make it easier to see what's going on. I tried to "highlight" my additions and the black wire that I ran to make it easier to see.
You can also add a magnet (with superglue and fusion tape) to the USB-C connector to stick it to the frame when not in use.
=Mounting the Converter=
The converter barely fits on the inside of the headlight housing bracket, and in fact your screws holes will not quite be on the same surface (the bracket has a slight bend do it near the fork) but that is ok because the Converter mounting tabs are plastic and can flex a slight bit.
#Place painters tape on the both sides of the bracket you intend to drill to protect the finish
#Place the DC/DC converter on the inside of the bracket where it will live, ensure it doesn't interfere with the headlight housing. I actually used two converters (one on the outside and one on the inside) and lined them up together and then used the outside one to mark the location (then I discarded that spare converter). Make sure you aren't too far "back" (toward the seat) so that it is challenging to drill the rear hole.
#I didn't ever remove the headlight housing but it would probably have been a lot easier if I had. If you want to, this is the time to do it. Make an indention with a Center Punch (to ensure you drill bit doesn't wander)
#Drill a small pilot hole
#Drill a larger hole to accept a #8 or M4 screw (I used a size 14 bit). You may want to add several layers of tape to the fork when drilling the rear hole to protect it from the side of the bit.
#Remove the tape and install the Converter using stainless steel #8 or M4 screws (approx 5/8" or 16mm long), washers, and nylock nuts.
=Wiring=
#Crimp male 1/4" quick disconnects to both the red & black wires on the Converter.
#Disconnect the orange wire from the Horn & cut the female 1/4" quick disconnect off as close to the connector as possible. Strip back 1/4" of insulation to expose the copper wire.
#Get a yellow 1/4" quick disconnect (for heavier 10-12 gauge wire) and insert the original horn power wire as well as a length of spare orange wire (approx 1 foot). Crimp it. Reinstall the quick disconnect to the horn.
#Ensure there is enough length on your spare orange wire to reach the red input wire to the Converter (approx 6"), cut it to length, strip back 1/4" and install a red (preferably insulated) female 1/4" quick disconnect.
#Plug the red wire from the converter into the new orange section from the horn power.
#Remove the grommet around the big wire harness that comes out of the frame opposite the electrical on/off lock.
#Use a fish tape from the battery/gas tank compartment toward the front and pop it out the opening where you removed the grommet (this was actually much easier than I expected).
#Tape on a black ground wire and pull it back through. Leave plenty of slack on both ends.
#Reinstall the grommet
#Route the wire around the gas tank and battery to the negative terminal on the battery.
#Crimp/solder a battery terminal lug to the wire and attach it to the battery (I put this in the same lug as I used for my SAE Battery Tender Connector)
#Go back to the front (near the grommet) and route the black wire to the black input on the Converter.
#Cut your black wire to length, install a 1/4" female quick disconnect.
#Connect the new ground wire to the black wire from the Converter
#Route the USB output of the Converter up to where your phone mount is and zip tie it in place.
#Clean up the rest of the wiring wiring and zip-tie it out of the way
=Shopping List=
#[https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Type-C+Right+Angle+Power+Converter+15W&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Type-C+Right+Angle+Step-Down+Power+Converter+Buck+Converter+15W 12V to 5V DC USB Type-C Right Angle Power Converter 15W]
#[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HWW8NLH/ Lugs for Battery Terminal]
#[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRB1J4W Dust Cap to protect USB-C connector]
#stainless steel #8 or M4 screws (approx 5/8" long), flat washers, nylock nuts
#[https://www.amazon.com/AIRIC-Waterproof-Electrical-Disconnects-Disconnectors/dp/B06XCRHJQS 1/4" Quick Disconnect Kit]
#[https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-Equipment-FTS1-8-25-25-Feet/dp/B01ADWQ454 Fish Tape]
#Crimp Tool
#(optional) soldering iron & solder (depending on type of battery lugs)
#Zip Ties
=Alternate USB Micro-B Parts for Older Phones=
#[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRBPRSB?th=1 Dust Cap to protect USB Micro-B connector]
#[https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Micro+Power+Converter+15W&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Power+Converter+15W 12V to 5V DC USB Micro-B Power Converter 15W]
=Photos=
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_1.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_2.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_3.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_4.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_5.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_6.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_7.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_8.jpg|1024px]]
It's a bit hard to see the Converter (it tucks in there nicely!) and I took the pictures before ZipTie-ing the cables out of of the way to make it easier to see what's going on. I tried to "highlight" my additions and the black wire that I ran to make it easier to see.
You can also add a magnet (with superglue and fusion tape) to the USB-C connector to stick it to the frame when not in use.
=Mounting the Converter=
The converter barely fits on the inside of the headlight housing bracket, and in fact your screws holes will not quite be on the same surface (the bracket has a slight bend do it near the fork) but that is ok because the Converter mounting tabs are plastic and can flex a slight bit.
#Place painters tape on the both sides of the bracket you intend to drill to protect the finish
#Place the DC/DC converter on the inside of the bracket where it will live, ensure it doesn't interfere with the headlight housing. I actually used two converters (one on the outside and one on the inside) and lined them up together and then used the outside one to mark the location (then I discarded that spare converter). Make sure you aren't too far "back" (toward the seat) so that it is challenging to drill the rear hole.
#I didn't ever remove the headlight housing but it would probably have been a lot easier if I had. If you want to, this is the time to do it. Make an indention with a Center Punch (to ensure you drill bit doesn't wander)
#Drill a small pilot hole
#Drill a larger hole to accept a #8 or M4 screw (I used a size 14 bit). You may want to add several layers of tape to the fork when drilling the rear hole to protect it from the side of the bit.
#Remove the tape and install the Converter using stainless steel #8 or M4 screws (approx 5/8" or 16mm long), washers, and nylock nuts.
=Wiring=
#Crimp male 1/4" quick disconnects to both the red & black wires on the Converter.
#Disconnect the orange wire from the Horn & cut the female 1/4" quick disconnect off as close to the connector as possible. Strip back 1/4" of insulation to expose the copper wire.
#Get a yellow 1/4" quick disconnect (for heavier 10-12 gauge wire) and insert the original horn power wire as well as a length of spare orange wire (approx 1 foot). Crimp it. Reinstall the quick disconnect to the horn.
#Ensure there is enough length on your spare orange wire to reach the red input wire to the Converter (approx 6"), cut it to length, strip back 1/4" and install a red (preferably insulated) female 1/4" quick disconnect.
#Plug the red wire from the converter into the new orange section from the horn power.
#Remove the grommet around the big wire harness that comes out of the frame opposite the electrical on/off lock.
#Use a fish tape from the battery/gas tank compartment toward the front and pop it out the opening where you removed the grommet (this was actually much easier than I expected).
#Tape on a black ground wire and pull it back through. Leave plenty of slack on both ends.
#Reinstall the grommet
#Route the wire around the gas tank and battery to the negative terminal on the battery.
#Crimp/solder a battery terminal lug to the wire and attach it to the battery (I put this in the same lug as I used for my SAE Battery Tender Connector)
#Go back to the front (near the grommet) and route the black wire to the black input on the Converter.
#Cut your black wire to length, install a 1/4" female quick disconnect.
#Connect the new ground wire to the black wire from the Converter
#Route the USB output of the Converter up to where your phone mount is and zip tie it in place.
#Clean up the rest of the wiring wiring and zip-tie it out of the way
=Shopping List=
#[https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Type-C+Right+Angle+Power+Converter+15W&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Type-C+Right+Angle+Step-Down+Power+Converter+Buck+Converter+15W 12V to 5V DC USB Type-C Right Angle Power Converter 15W]
#[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HWW8NLH/ Lugs for Battery Terminal]
#[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRB1J4W Dust Cap to protect USB-C connector]
#stainless steel #8 or M4 screws (approx 5/8" long), flat washers, nylock nuts
#[https://www.amazon.com/AIRIC-Waterproof-Electrical-Disconnects-Disconnectors/dp/B06XCRHJQS 1/4" Quick Disconnect Kit]
#[https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-Equipment-FTS1-8-25-25-Feet/dp/B01ADWQ454 Fish Tape]
#Crimp Tool
#(optional) soldering iron & solder (depending on type of battery lugs)
#Zip Ties
=Alternate USB Micro-B Parts for Older Phones=
#[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRBPRSB?th=1 Dust Cap to protect USB Micro-B connector]
#[https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Micro+Power+Converter+15W&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=12V+to+5V+DC+USB+Power+Converter+15W 12V to 5V DC USB Micro-B Power Converter 15W]
=Photos=
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_1.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_2.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_3.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_4.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_5.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_6.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_7.jpg|1024px]]
[[File:Champion_12V-5V-USB_8.jpg|1024px]]
