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#*The 3 Lid mount points that aren't shared with the Fuse Block use 8-32x3/4" Flat Head Screws with #8 Lock Washers & 8-32 Nuts.
#*The 1 hole shared by the Lid mount & the Fuse Block uses an 8-32x1.5" Pan Head Screw with a #8 Lock Washer & an 8-32 Nut.
#Now it's time to add the cabling. I'm not going to detail every single wire I ran but I will show you have I did it and give you a basic rundown. 'INSERT WIRING DIAGRAM HERE I connected all black wires (negative side of the Relay Coil) to the Barrier Strip. I connected all white wires (Positive side of the Relay Coil) to my 1st connectors. I connected the 5 red wires from the Relays (the common line) to locations 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 on the Fuse Block. I connected the 5 blue wires from the Relays (the Normally Open line) to the 2nd connector. Additionally a red line in 12AWG was used to provide power to the dash switches which comes off the plate on pin 1 of the Switch Signal Connector.'''#Now it's time to add the cabling. I'm not going to detail every single wire I ran but I will show you how I did it and give you a basic rundown. The relays I bought come with sockets and pre-built pigtails. It was necessary that I add length to each wire to accommodate my installation. I added about 2 feet to each wire, knowing i would trim them to length later. Note that I only used 4 wires per Relay because I didn't need anything connected when the Relay was in the "Normally Open" position.##First strip the ends of the wires you are going to join. Then tin each exposed end. This is done by heating up the wire and applying solder to it. I recommend globing on as much solder as will comfortably go. This will make it easier to join the 2 wires in the next step.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_12.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_13.jpg|400px]]##Next clamp one of the wires in a vice (or vice grips propped up on a screwdriver like I did. Be sure not to make it too tight. You don't want to crush the wire). With your soldering iron in 1 hand and the other wire in the other, join them side by side.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_14.jpg|400px]]##Now cut a length of heatshrink about 2 inches long, slide it over the junction, & heat it up using a heat gun.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_15.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_16.jpg|400px]]##Repeat this process for every wire on every Relay Pigtail.#This is a good time to share a tip regarding the cheapo Bosch Relay Sockets. The wires are held into the Socket via a small metal tab. I found that my wires often wanted to fall out. This problem can be remedied by bending the metal tab on the contact on the end of the pigtail wires outward.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_17.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_18.jpg|400px]]#After adding extensions to all the pigtail wires I put everything back together on the plate and layed out each wire, 1 at a time, along the path I wanted it to travel to see how long it needed to be. I went ahead and trimmed them to length and added the appropriate connector on the end. Those wires going to the Fuse Block or Barrier Strip got spade lugs. Those wires going to the Switch Connector got appropriate female connector pins. I'm going to assume you know how to put on spade lugs using a crimp tool. The connector pins are another story. They sell a special tool to put these kind of pins on but I've found a pair of needle nose pliers works just fine. Using the needle nose pliers bend down the fingers on 1 side of the connector & then the other. I also soldered down the wire to the pin for added strength & reliability.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_19.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_20.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_21.jpg|400px]]#Once those pins are attached you'll want to install them into the connectors. This is fairly straight forward and all you have to do is push them in from the back. Make sure you push them in far enough that they click into place. Since I chose 2 of the same connector for Switch Control & Power, I decided to make one socket female and one socket male so that I couldn't plug them in backwards. Also, the manufacturer recommends putting on the little white clips to make sure that none of the pins pop out. This was fairly easy for most of the connects but a major pain for 1 and I ended up having to install it with a pair of Channel Lock Pliers.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_25.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_26.jpg|400px]]#Once the wires have been cut to length, pins put on and installed into the connector, and spade lugs put on it is time to start zip tying everything into place. I like the stick on zip-tie anchors to keep everything tidy.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_22.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_23.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_24.jpg|400px]]#At this point the Power Distribution Plate is basically complete! Time to install it in the vehicle! Now, unfortunately, I spread my Lid mount screws to all 4 corners of the flat part of the Lid. The back 2 (closest to the firewall) interfere with the top of the Nissan Fuse Holder Assembly. I made a couple small cuts and that fixed it right up. You may consider moving the back 2 screws.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_9.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_10.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_11.jpg|400px]]#[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_27.jpg|400px]]