1,575
edits
Changes
no edit summary
#'''INSERT WIRING DIAGRAM HERE I connected all black wires (negative side of the Relay Coil) to the Barrier Strip. I connected all white wires (Positive side of the Relay Coil) to my 1st connectors. I connected the 5 red wires from the Relays (the common line) to locations 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 on the Fuse Block. I connected the 5 blue wires from the Relays (the Normally Open line) to the 2nd connector. Additionally a red line in 12AWG was used to provide power to the dash switches which comes off the plate on pin 1 of the Switch Signal Connector.'''
#Now it's time to add the cabling. I'm not going to detail every single wire I ran but I will show you how I did it and give you a basic rundown. The relays I bought come with sockets and pre-built pigtails. It was necessary that I add length to each wire to accommodate my installation. I added about 2 feet to each wire, knowing i would trim them to length later. Note that I only used 4 wires per Relay because I didn't need anything connected when the Relay was in the "Normally Open" position.
##First strip the ends of the wires you are going to join. Then tin each exposed end. This is done by heating up the wire and applying solder to it. I recommend globing on as much solder as will comfortably go. This will make it easier to join the 2 wires in the next step.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_12.jpg|400px266px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_13.jpg|400px]]
##Next clamp one of the wires in a vice (or vice grips propped up on a screwdriver like I did. Be sure not to make it too tight. You don't want to crush the wire). With your soldering iron in 1 hand and the other wire in the other, join them side by side.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_14.jpg|400px]]
##Now cut a length of heatshrink about 2 inches long, slide it over the junction, & heat it up using a heat gun.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_15.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_16.jpg|400px]]
#Once the wires have been cut to length, pins put on and installed into the connector, and spade lugs put on it is time to start zip tying everything into place. I like the stick on zip-tie anchors to keep everything tidy.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_22.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_23.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_24.jpg|400px]]
#At this point the Power Distribution Plate is basically complete! Time to install it in the vehicle! Now, unfortunately, I spread my Lid mount screws to all 4 corners of the flat part of the Lid. The back 2 (closest to the firewall) interfere with the top of the Nissan Fuse Holder Assembly. I made a couple small cuts and that fixed it right up. You may consider moving the back 2 screws.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_9.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_10.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_11.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_27.jpg|400px]]
#Moving right along we now need to wire the Plate into the rest of the vehicle. This consists of wiring up the other side of the Switch Control & Power Connectors, wiring GND up to the vehicle, & getting 12V Prime Power from the vehicle. Go ahead and wiring up the Switch Control & Power Connectors just like you did on the Plate follow the same instructions as above.
#Next lets take care of GND. Please remember that as you work on these electrical systems you should always disconnect Power from the vehicle. The simplest way to do this is to disconnect the big Black cable from the Negative terminal on the battery. Recall that GND on the Power Plate is all run to a Barrier Strip in the middle of the plate. Thus, we need to run a line from that Barrier Strip to Vehicle GND. I've read a lot of recommendations that GND be run to the chassis as close to the battery as possible (as opposed to the Chassis close to the Device or directly to the battery). This works for me since it is cleaner than trying to get right on the Negative Lug anyhow. I found a bolt on the Chassis right by the battery which is actually the prime point for the battery to GND the vehicle chassis. The extra blue spade lug in the photo below is return for the FT-7900R. The extra green lug is GND from the Battery.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_28.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_29.jpg|400px]]
#Finally it's time for Prime Power! We basically need to get power from the positive terminal of the Battery to the Common Post on the Fuse Block. While the Fuse Block provides a nice distribution and fusing solution for the electronics in the vehicle, I still didn't want an unfused line running from the battery to the Power Plate. So I built up an inline fuse cable to solve this. I also had to cut a slot out of the factory Terminal Cover to fit my cable in.<br />[[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_30.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_28.jpg|400px]][[File:Yaesu_Install_Power_31.jpg|400px]]